I took a trip to Illinois a couple of weeks ago for an appointment in Cairo. I've never seen a ghost town, until now. A living ghost town if that makes sense. It seemed the perfect place for the making of the next zombie movie.
I grew up hearing stories from my grandpa about Cairo and it's booming era through the 20's and 30's. From all I gathered it was the hoppin' place to be. A river town with lots of movers and shakers, great places to stay, excellent restaurants, beautiful homes, thriving businesses, and fun for anyone who came to town.
That was not the Cairo I saw. What I saw was a community falling down from the foundation up. And what wasn't crumbling, was being swallowed alive by vegetation. Or in some cases, both.

My son said the population was somewhere around 3,000, but everyone must have all been working, hiding, or out of town that day because I didn't see more than a handful of those 3,000. My hometown is 1,100 people and there is more movement there than in Cairo.

If the vacant homes and businesses along the main drag weren't enough to stir my curiosity, we ventured closer to the river and the 'historic' part of the city.
There we found brick streets that made my car jitter and sounded like the warning ripples you might experience while getting too close to the white line on a major highway.

Amazingly enough you could see where the bricks had once been covered over by asphalt or concrete that has since worn or washed away. Grass now sprouts through the cracks as nature seems to be reclaiming what once it once owned.

I suspect that if we had gotten more rain this summer these streets would have looked more like grass pathways. I was amazed at the square footage of bricks and mortar crumbling around me. Monstrous buildings that were once grand structures and had hosted a variety of businesses, were little more than decaying reminders of what once was.

(The building above burned to the ground just weeks after I shot these images and published this blog)

I cannot image the home displays that the Rhodes Buford furniture store once held in a location with this much square footage, or the amount of furniture that was stored over head and in the warehouse section of the building.



The architecture was outstanding on some of these old places. Even blocked up to replace glass and stop intruders these buildings looked majestic. The detail in the craftsmanship is just over the top. They just don't build places like this anymore.

I asked my son over and over again what he knew about the place but even though he stayed in Cairo briefly he didn't know much. He talked of homes he had been in that were just crumbling and basements that were constantly filled with water. There was some mumbling about Al Capone and a hideout. I think he spent his short stay in Cairo just trying to get out of there and not really concerned with it's history.
I believe the building shown below was suppose to be the Al Capone hideout.

I had to know more. I mean really, how does a city once teeming with people just turn into a ghost town? A town that sits between two rivers that wastes away to nothing. How on earth does that happen?
So I looking online for any information I could find on Cairo, Illinois. What I found was a tragic but interesting read.
Cairo is the Southern most city in Illinois. What became Fort Defiance [and now a state park on the edge of Cairo], is the lowest elevation of any location in Illinois.
First explorers of Cairo, during the period between 1600-1700, noted the area was muddy and difficult to get ashore. Even today that would be an understatement.
The first settlement to be established was formed by a Frenchman, Sieur Charles Juchereau de St Denis, and his crew. They were sent by King Louis XIV and charged with establishing a tannery. They were ordered to kill as many buffalo as possible along the Ohio River in Illinois in 1702. They made a hefty haul of thousands of hides but were attacked by Cherokee and other Indians, killed, and robbed of their buffalo skins.
In 1803 Lewis and Clark made it through the neighborhood on their ever famous state sponsored expedition.
Not long after the land that is now Cairo would be purchased by John G. Comergy, a close personal friend of Meriwether Lewis. The purchase consisted of 1,800 acres of land and was done through the Territorial Legislature. At that time a bank was establish and the city was incorporated. Land plots were sold to further develop the area and fund the land project. John Comegy died circa 1819-1820 and executors of his will later allowed the land to come into default. The land reverted back to the United States Government.
In1837 Darius B. Holbrook, from Boston, opened the Cairo City and Canal Company. The sale of bonds through the Canal Company helped fund improvements to the area like the levee system, ship yards, and a dry dock. By 1840 the population had reached 1,000. However, in 1845, the census showed a decline to a population of 113 after the London investment group holding Cairo bonds failed.
The town struggled as many did when first established until a route to Chicago was linked with the tracks of the Illinois Central Railroad through the Land Grant Act of 1850. The railroad system in Cairo became a reality in 1856 connecting Cairo to Galena, Il.. The railway and increased river boat traffic boosted Cairo into another growth spurt. It was incorporated in 1858.
By 1861 the population had grown to 2,200 and became the county seat for Alexander County, Il.

Along about May of 1861, the population grew another 2,700 residence with the influx of Civil war soldiers. By June, another 12,000 more had arrived, and another 38,000 troops commanded the area of Bird's Point to cover the waterfront of Cairo. Cairo had become quite the military installation where even General Grant commanded a post for some time.
During that time Cairo was reported to be a "muddy mess", a humid climate, and area accustomed to flooding. Mosquitos were heavy, and living conditions were dirty. Businesses popped up to accommodate rising populations and some were considered quite crooked.

In 1818 Illinois became a free state while neighboring states of Arkansas, Tennessee, and Missouri still held slaves. Missouri shorelines were frequently breached as slaves seeking freedom escaped to Illinois. Parts of the old Central Railroad storage units under Levee Street of Cairo was frequently used as a hiding place for escaped slaves. Cairo had become one of the key transfer stations for the Underground Railroad. It was discovered on 1998 that many rooms and adjoining tunnels ran for blocks under the street.

1862 populations around Cairo remained steady and then climbing due to the introduction of "contraband slaves" brought to Cairo by the Union Army. They were housed there in "contraband camps" .

After the civil war ended, thousands of freed slaves ended up in Cairo, a stop in major transit from South to North. While thousands of blacks passed through Cairo's port, 3,000 freed slaves ended up taking up residence in Cairo, making up 30% of the then population.

By 1890 Cairo's population had reached 6,300 people. It was not only a popular river town but a popular stop in the railroad line running between the North and the South.
In 1905 a railroad bridge was constructed over the Mississippi river from Missouri into into Thebes, Il., a small town Northwest of Cairo. This was a huge blow in Cairo's status as a railroad hub yet Cairo later reached it's peak population in 1907 with a whopping 20,000 residents.
On Nov. 11, 1909, racial violence broke out and a black man, Will "Froggy" James, who was believed to have raped and killed a young white girl, 22 year old Annie Pelley, and was lynched by an angry mob of white residents numbering in the thousands. He was hanged at the popular corner of 8th and Commercial. His body was filled with bullets, cut into pieces and burnt, and his head left stuck half burned on a pole in Candee Park at the intersection of Washington Ave. and Elm Street. The national Guard was called in to stop the violence after yet another lynching took place later that same night. Henry Salzner, a man jailed for suspicion of killing his wife was dragged from the jail, by the same agree mob, and hanged at the corner of Washington Ave. and 21st Street.
In 1910 a sheriff's deputy was killed by an angry mob attempting yet another lynching. Once again the National Guard was called in to maintain order. Cairo had sprung into a violent cycle that would later put Cairo at the top if the charts for murder rates in Illinois, yet it continued to thrive as a city.
Also during 1910 was the year the Gem Theater opened. Seating 685 patrons it was the new hot spot in town and later burnt in 1934. The Gem was rebuilt and remained in operation until 1978. The original building still stands today but has fallen into disrepair.

By 1920 the city was at a population of 15,200.
In 1937 Cairo suffered extreme flooding when the Ohio river came out of its banks. Cairo was saved when the Army Corp of Engineers blew a levee. But like everywhere else, the great Depression hit Cairo hard. The city had the highest murder rate in the state. That same year the prostitute population of Cairo was estimated to be over 1,000.
Populations began to fall as low as 14,407 by the early 1940's and early in the decade a number of serious fires destroyed local businesses that were never rebuilt.
When WWII was over in 1945 the town suffered extremely high unemployment as apposed to flourishing communities across the state. This further increased crime rates and Cairo soon became a hot bed of organized crime.
(See supposed Al Capone hideout below)


Racial segregation grew over the decades and the first drive for racial equality came when a federal lawsuit was filed in 1946 to secure equal pay for black teachers. But even the judge in the case used racial slurs showing lack of support for any sort of equality.
Then, in 1950, a further decline to population brought the number of residents to 12,123 although still home to barrel factories, breweries, grain mills, lumber mills, cottonseed-oil manufacturing, pottery plants, brickyards, and tool manufacturers. And behind the scenes, there was a new shop setting up in town. Bootlegging and gambling were the money makers of the era.
The Senate began an investigation into bootlegging taking place in Cairo. Profits were estimated at a whopping $20 million dollars as illegal alcohol was funneled into neighboring dry states. A number of mobster groups were said to be running businesses out the back doors of Cairo not only in bootleg liquor but in illegal slot machines as well.
In 1952 efforts began to integrate Cairo's schools but black schools would not be abolished until later in 1967.
By 1960 Cairo's population was down to 9,000.
Racial discrimination grew by leaps and bounds with violent outbursts between black and white citizens. By 1962 freedom movements were breaking out all over the country but rarely given notoriety by media. With city facilities, public housing, local parks, and almost any public and private offices segregated, the public swimming pool had become a "private club" to keep out the black citizens. Civil Rights Activist demonstrated in front of the pool only to have a young black lady run over as a white racist drove his pickup truck through the demonstration. The pool was later closed in 1963 to avoid integration.
During the same time period demonstrations occurred at the local skating rink. When activists arrived the doors were locked with a note on the door reading "No Niggars here!", while the KKK conducted a meeting inside.
After the suspicious death of a 19 year old black soldier arose, a death while in police custody, it seemed an all out war between the races was about to blow, and it did. The death was deemed a suicide by authorities but the black community disagreed. Cairo native, Reverend Charles Koen, lead the black citizens of Cairo to rise up in protest not only over the soldier's death but for decades of harsh segregation. A riot broke out and the National Guard was called in to restore peace, yet again.
In 1969 a civil rights group formed in Cairo, calling themselves the United Front of Cairo, standing for and with, Cairo's black citizens against the "White Hats", a vigilante organization of local white citizens. The United Front civil rights group boycotted businesses of white store owners who refused to hire black workers. The national Guard was called in once again to make sure the situation didn't get out of hand.

Later, Lieutenant Governor Paul Simon and a special committee, appointed by the Illinois House of Representatives, investigated the the event in Cairo and soon the White Hats were ordered to disband. Lt. Governor Simon demanded integration of the city and county departments and the enforcement of civil rights laws.
Racism continued as segregation lingered. Little League seasons were cancelled to keep black children from playing on teams. Black citizens were not allowed to gather at parks, public events, or form marches, and of course discrimination continued in the work place with businesses still refusing to hire black citizens. An all white school was opened.
Mills, factories, banks and shops began to leave Cairo. No more were the restaurants and respected business establishments. Goodbye to the gas stations and even the hospital which closed in 1986. Singer Sewing Machine Factory, that once employed several hundred employees, had closed years before.

Cairo eventually desegregated but racial tension is still alive and well in the city even today.
Violent demonstrations continued between races through the 1970's sporting gunfire, fire bombings, marches, protests, and countless arrests.
The population was a little over 6,000 in Cairo in 1970, and by 1971 their was little to picket in Cairo as most of the businesses had closed. The boycott continued for the businesses that had remained for the remaining 1970's.
Later, in 1986 two major blows hit Cairo. The hospital closed and the City of New Orleans Railroad Company, who operated the rail lines, made it's last stop in Cairo, Il.
With lack of rail trade, river business at an all time low, and businesses closed all over town, Cairo applied for a gambling permit which would have allowed the city to operate a riverboat. The application was denied. Still evident, crime and racial tensions keeping people away from the area were thought to have influenced the State's decision against the permit.
The population and economic stability continued to fall as such that in 1990 the principal of Cairo High School instructed graduates to leave, "as Cairo had nothing to offer them." The towns population was then less than 5,000.

In 2004 a manufacturer of foam and padding for car seats factory closed its doors. It was Cairo's last operating industry. Doom lingered over the now small and forgotten Illinois town.
A chilling Youtube video documentary filmed in 2008 featured Cairo in ruins. Buildings from years gone past, falling in on themselves, thriving businesses now gone. Fires burning down caved in structures that have sat empty with some vacant since the 60's.


In 2011 there was a catastrophic flood that threatened to do away with Cairo all together. The Corp of Engineers blew levee's in Southeast Missouri to keep Cairo from going completely underwater. Water was as high as the conduit on the building shown below and streets around Cairo were caving in from the water rushing through the many caverns below the city.
Also in 2011 a number of mysterious fires burned down many abandoned buildings in Cairo. All were deemed to be set by arsonists. I remember reading a quote somewhere that said "Cairo is burning to the ground. Good riddance".

Since the flood, many of the sink holes in the streets have been filled in, but at least one remains in the historic section of town. I was told that the city has been unable to keep the cavern below this street filled in order to shore up the street foundation and get the road repaired. No one seems to really care as they simply drive around the barricade. Garrett was amazed by it.

I hear that property values are so low in Cairo that a person working for minimum wage can actually afford a mortgage on a sizable home or business site. The problem being is that almost any property you purchase there is in horrible condition, would cost a fortune to repair properly, and good luck finding an insurance company to cover your real estate.
I had to giggle just a little as we drove by the building shown below. I wondered if the tree growing out of the foundation inside the building would cost extra.

I also got a kick out of the fact that when researching Cairo I found photos taken in 2008 of the building shown below, that featured the same curtain blowing out of a busted window. It's truly like the city is stuck in a time warp.

Although an interesting place, tortured past an all, and certainly a photographers dreamscape, I don't think I would enjoy living in Cairo.
Lack of employment, still abundant racial tension, distinct poverty issues, and abundant decay, make it a spooky place to be, in my opinion. For the short time I was there I felt as though every ghost of the past was still present and breathing down my neck the entire time.
If you would like to see more of the images I snapped in Cairo during my adventure there you can do so by clicking here. If you have comments you may make comments on individual images or on this blog post. If you have links to other interesting writings about Cairo, Il. by all means share them in your comments.
Click here to check out Ken Steinhoff's images and writings about Cairo on his blog Cape Girardeau History and Photos. Just type 'Cairo' in the search on his blog and you will find countless hours of reading and viewing pleasure. He's covered many more points on Cairo, and in better detail than I. I love reading Ken's stuff and viewing his images; he's a fantastic journalist. (If you are an Amazon.com shopper, shop through the link on Ken's site and help support his blog for no addition cost to you!)
In 2014 Cairo's population was approximately 2,576. Estimated per capita income in 2013 for Cairo was $10,368. With no industry and shrinking populations Cairo faces problems like poverty, poor education, crime, unemployment, and tax revenue deficiencies. At current pace, Cairo could be completely abandoned by 2020, according to some studies. Click here for most current statistics on Cairo.
*Please note that this article may be updated from time to time as information becomes available. Make sure to take time to read the interesting and informative comments below.